Cycletouring
the Netherlands for foreigners
definitely
not by the Dutch Tourist board
(c)
m.s.gerritsen 2003-2009
(please
note that any disclaimer by any lawyer ever probably applies to this
page
(and it wasn't me, honest!))
Cycling
is for the Dutch a way of life. Everyone learns to cycle in infancy,
and
for short journeys cycling is the prefered mode of transport. If you go
shopping, if you have to go to school, if you have to answer questions
in parliament or are planning a pubcrawl the bicycle can't be beat.
Some
might even ride a bike for sports or as a way to keep fit, but they are
a fringe minority with so many normal bikes on the road. In
primary-school
we have all done sums involving a cyclist at 18 km/hr, and most
Dutchmen
will consider this quite fast and long enough.
Theft
The
Dutch ride mainly roadster (sit up and beg) bicycles, and these are
supposed
to keep working without maintenance. In fact maintenance is a
liability,
as a new rear tyre increases the risk of theft. Bike theft in Holland
is a real problem and the most popular crime, committed
either by addicts looking for money or by those who
have
missed the last bus home. In some circles it is even considered normal
to steal a similar bike if you find your own bike gone! In 2006
760.000 bikes were reported stolen, which is about 5% of all cycles in
the
Netherlands!
I would
suggest to
- Bring
a lock, and lock the bike to something solid
- Not to
park the bike in the streets at night
- Not to
bring your bike to large cities with a population of drug addicts (walk
or use trains, trams or busses if you can work out how the ticket
system works. Taxi's are very expensive, and
-politely put- the quality of the drivers is variable)
- Only
park
your bike at railwaystations if there is a guarded facility (check the
opening hours though)
- Not to
expect anything from the police (okay, perhaps a cup of coffee)
- Oh by
the way, if you apprehend a thief be nice to him. Only police or
criminals
are permitted to use force, ordinary persons will be prosecuted.
Arrival
If
you arrive by plane, but want to start cycling from Schiphol Airport,
look
at www.wereldfietser.nl
for
directions. If you want to continue by train there are ticketmachines
situated in the baggageclaim area, so you can get a ticket before your
bags arrive. If you leave the bike packed you won't need a separate
ticket for it. The trainstation is underneath the departurehall, check
the large yellow noticeboards for the right stationplatform. The
airporttrain to Amsterdam is ideal hunting grounds for pickpockets, so
take care.
Trains
Outside
of rushhour (this restriction does not apply in the summer
months) it is theoretically possible to take your bike with you
on
the train. Getting tickets (buy before boarding!) can be quite a
challenge
though, as more and more humans are being replaced by ticket vendor
machines.
But shouting at the machine is quite alright, where humans might feel
threatened.
These machines probably accept your ATM card with a four digit PIN, but
don't let this nice helpfull man in line behind you run of with it!
You'll
need a special ticket for the bike, and be prepared that the designated
place for the bicycle is at the other end of the train. If you get
there
before the train has left this place will either be occupied, or to
small
to fit your bike. And you are supposed to remove your bags from the
bike,
but if you are a poor bewildered tourist the conductor might turn a
blind
eye.
If
the trains actually run on time, please don't mention it. Complaining
about NS-rail
is sociably much more acceptable.
Riding
in traffic
Dutch
cyclists grow up around motorcars, and motorists are used to bicycles.
It's a jungle out there, and the survivors have figured out a way to
stay
alive. To a foreign cyclist it will look totally accidental if the
observed
behaviour coincides with the official rules of the road. You will need
some time to acclimatize, so don't tackle the busiest city first if you
can help it. But take it easy the first days and you will be ok
because,
although it makes a poor epithaph, most drivers now realise that a
cyclist
can hit a car intentionally head on and it will still be the
car-drivers
fault by law. You'll know you're accepted into the fold when a passing
motorist brushes you with his mirror, instead of giving you a wide
berth
as if you're an alien!
All
traffic (including bicycles) from the right has mandatory right
of
way, but often this is changed with road signs. Watch out for
roundabouts,
as the priority rules are varied from region to region to catch out the
non-locals.
If
you don't hinder other traffic cyclists can ride two abreast.
Roads
To
make driving a car easier we have lots of cyclepaths:
- We
have
cyclepaths to connect villages to the nearest city. But trying to ride
from city to city can be a real challenge, as some vital piece might be
missing necessitating a large detour without the help of signposts,
- We
have
cyclepaths for tourist which don't go anywhere usefull,
- We
have
cyclepaths which are mandatory for cyclists,
- We
have
cyclepaths which are optional for cyclists (but forbidden for other
vehicles),
- We
have
cyclepaths which can be ignored by all traffic users..
If
you
encounter a blue round shield with a bicycle depicted this means a
mandatory
cyclepath.
If
you encounter the rectangular sign "fietspad" only cylists are allowed
to use the path, but they are welcome to use track adjacent.
If
you encounter a red road surface with a bike on it, cyclist are
suggested
to use that bit, but without the round sign mentioned this doesn't mean
much.
  
(l
to r) mandatory cycling path, definitely not a cycling path, optional
cycling
path with the ubiquitous bollards
Cycle
paths are usually constructed with concrete tiles over treeroots, power
lines and moleruns, but red 'double rolling resistance' asphalt is
another
option. Posts thoughtfully placed in the middle of the path to deter
motorists
(as if somebody would ride on a cyclepath by choice) ad excitement at
night.
Or the path might end suddenly with a 90 degree turn-off shooting you
in
front of the uncoming traffic which you can't see for the trees lining
the road.
Cycling
is not allowed on Motorways and trunkroads (with or without a
hardshoulder), on roads armed with a round
red-white
sign depicting a bicycle, on roads flanked by a mandatory cyclepath, on
roads
where you could use the service road instead, or on the footpath. Other
laws: it is legal to tow a trailer and we have no mandatory helmet law.
Maximum width of a bicycle is 30" (75cm), wider and you have to
follow
the rules for handcarts which are completely forgotten by motorists,
cylists
and cops alike. Bicycles should be fitted with a bell, reflectors
to the rear, sides and pedals, have a working brake and carry (non
flashing) lights
after
darkness. With the exception of the lights you should, like any
Dutchmen,
expect to get away without any of the above!
For
cyclist who like cheating there are 'nationale
fietsroutes'. These routes for cyclist avoid many of the
challenges,
involve nice bits of scenery and quiet roads suitable for cycling, and
go to places you actually might want to go to. You could try to get a
map
at the tourist-office or a bookstore, but the routes are signposted.
The maps for all routes are available in the guide: 'Basiskaart
fietsroutes' @ € 27,50
Get the current one with the maps printed double sided on plastic
material, not the old superceded one with the maps printed on
watersoluble paper! Note
that these routes usually include sections through forests etc, where
the
roadsurface is not paved. I would suggest a 35mm tyre or wider,
especially
in the wet season.

sign for a national cycleroute (LF14a goes in the
opposite
direction). Kamperen bij de Boer is also useful, it directs you
to a small 'campsite at the farm'
You
might also try playing with an online bicycle route planner. It's now
at Lekkerweg.com
but in Dutch only. start is starting point, Einde
is destination, straatnaam =
street, Woonplaats is town
and you can type on vul in.
If you don't know about streetnames click on the black arrow behind straat and choose woonplaats
in the menu Clicking on [bereken
de route ] gives you results. You get a checkbox
with a pull down menu if the routeplanner hasn't recognized your
waypoints, as it isn't very
intelligent. However it wil give some suggestions
'Routebeschrijving' will
result in complete directions in (double) Dutch. Babelfish will help
some.
Clicking on the map gives you details of the route. Schuif kaart gives you the option
to move the map with the mouse. Note that the planner still needs
updating, many cycle specific shortcuts still have to be added.
Nodal grid ('knooppuntroute')
We don't have them in the north (yet) but you can traverse a fair part
of the country and Belgium using the nodal grid for cyclist. Nodes are
provided with a signpost complete with a regional map and you can plan
your route by making a list of the numbers of all the nodes you will be
passing. If you buy a recent updated cycling map the numbers will be on
the map too. If you have difficulty with remembering the Dutch
placenames 36-38-41-29-42 might be easier to follow ;) In nature
reserves the roads could be anything from tarmac to MTB style
singletrack.
Roadmaps.
The
whole country fits on a single roadmap 1: 250000 (4 mls/") If bought at
a red and yellow petrol station, price and quality will be quite
reasonable.
Smaller scale maps exist, but if you go north-south you'll need quite a
few. Getting lost in the Netherlands is probably possible, but before
long
you'll run into one of the 16 million Dutchman who are eager to show
off
their english.
Hills
Most
of the country will disappear if we switch off the pumps. So not
surprisingly
we have very few hills and to confuse matters more the ones we have are
often called mountains (= berg)! These can be found in the south (The
Belgian
Ardennes extend into Limburg) or scattered around the National park
Hoge
Veluwe bang in the middle of the country (Veluwezoom, Sallandse
Heuvelrug,
Utrechtse Heuvelrug). Dutch racing cyclist will know all these hills by
heart, foreigners will probably fail to spot them. Don't leave your
granny
gear at home though, because what we do have is Wind! The country is
very
open in places and you could face a tough headwind all day long. If
you're
lucky the headwind will be dry ;).
Signposts
We
have lots of signposts in the Netherlands. Red letters on white are
signposts
for cyclist (these usually point to one out of a series of 10 different
hamletts in about the same direction), blue/white signs for motorcars
actually
mention the place you want to go. Too bad you don't know about that bit
of motorway in between. Green on white signs are also used for extra
long (?) and scenic cycleroutes. Black lettering on yellow is used for
detours, as it is common with road reconstruction to block the whole
road
instead
of mucking about with temporary traffic-lights and single file. On a
bike the best approach is to ignore these signs and press on.
Occasionally
this won't work as you'll find a bridge completely gone, but more often
you' ll avoid a lot
of -illigal for cyclists- motorways and silly detours by just walking a
short stretch!
 
signposts
for cyclists...
 
More signs for cyclist.
Left: Uitgezonderd means excepted, so this dead end will
continue as a cyclepath. Right: Not very useful for touring: this sign is used for
a MTB track

Doorgaand verkeer
= through route, cyclists should turn right (red lettering) . This also
happens to be in
the
direction of the tourist office (VVV)

Temporary sign: doorgaand (through route) verkeer (traffic) gestremd
(blocked) uitgezonderd (excepted)
Food
24
hour economy refers in the Netherlands to the working week. If you
want to buy food you'll find most supermarkets close at 20:00, and they
won't be open on Sundays unless the management is really clever and
you're well clear of the biblebelt! In rural area's they might close
even
earlier.
On the plus side, cafe's and bars are much more liberal, and in
some
cities it is possible to keep drinking around the clock. If you're over
16 and manage to stagger to the next place that is. Tee-totalers might
not appreciate the Dutch Coffeeshop thoughtfully situated near airport
or border, although no alcohol is served in
those
places.
If
you want fastfood drive past the McDonalds and go to an authentic
cafetaria.
Get yourself a ' grote patat met" (large french fries with mayonaise)
or
something similar unhealthy (who cares, if you're cycling you need all
the calories you can get;) ) and save some money. If you survive you
can
go for jellied eels or fresh herrings next!
Camping
You're
not supposed to camp in the wilds or in what we consider wilderness.
You'll
probably fail to spot our nature reserves because we have nature
organised.
This is big business involving committees, planning, design and heavy
earthmoving
equipment. Certainly not something to be left to nature, which is why
it
looks different. But if you pick your stealth camping-spot with
care you
could be ok, just don't try this in the height of the tourist season in
coastal resorts. Evasion of the tourist tax is frowned upon! Campings
are
probably closed october-april. If you decide to tour in the off-season,
you'd better bring decent rain gear. With a sea-climate being out all
day
on a bike on a rainy day would not be my idea of fun.
The
latest thing is that wild camping in our organised wilderness is now
organised
and regulated too! In some forests, spots are marked where you can
pitch
your tent for the night. Don't see the site from our forestry
commision: staatbosbeheer.
it is
unintelligible, and knowing Dutch doesn't make
it any better.The Hiking site
has a list with placenames and GPS coordinates of the sites (click on
the map (the red spots don't mean a thing) and you get a list of the
closests spots. Pitch your
tent within sight of the pole and boil the water (there should be a
well) before consumption. Take your trash, don't build a fire and
leave within three days.
Friends
on Bicycles (Vrienden op de fiets)
If
you're not the camping type you will appreciate the foundation Vrienden
op de Fiets. This is a widespread network of people offering a room and
a breakfast for fellow cyclist for 17€ or less.You'll have to join the
foundation for
the
adresses, but it 's only a nominal fee. They have a website
and the link for the english language section is hidden in the blue bar
at the top, to ensure than only proper cyclist will join!
Things
to do on a bike
- Ride
the
Afsluitdijk, the dike which turned the Zuyderzee into the fresh water
lake
IJsselmeer Depending on the wind, this could take you all day.
Another
tough one could be Enkhuizen-Lelystad, which goes halfway through the
IJsselmeer
- Visit
Velorama, the bicycle museum in Nijmegen
- Ask
the
miller if you can take a look inside if you spot a working windmill
- Visit
Groningen, which was voted Fietsstad (cycling town) of the year. The
cyclepaths
fitted with sleeping policemen probably clinched it!
- Ride
along
one of our rivers (Waal, Rijn, IJssel) over the river dike, and enjoy
the
timeless landscape by Rembrand cs. (or see the originals in the Rijksmuseum)
- Eat
lunch,
leaning against a Drents Hunebed (Megalithic gravetomb made of very
large stones in the province
of Drente)
- Take a
girl friend
home on the luggagecarrier after a night out.
- Get
your
picture taken by one of our many speedcamera's! (only a few km's over
the
limit should do it, and motorists will love you for it)
Things
not to do with a bike
- Many
cyclepaths
through the Dunes are fitted with barriers, speedbumps and other
attractions
to turn away cyclists. You might have to unload to get your bike
through
the narrow barriers!
- Ride
without
lights in darkness. Ride with a blinky in rural area's: city cops will
be happy that you have some sort of light, rural cops have enough time
on their hands to write a ticket! By law the lights should be
fitted
to the bike, not to the person but it has recently been officially
announced that this won't be enforced (officially not enforcing
official law is the Dutch way of doing things, and Gedoogbeleid could soon be a word
in your language too!)
- Take
your
bike with you in shops or restaurants, unless you're very good at
'sorry
I'm a foreigner...'
Cycleshops
Although
the majority of cycleshops specialize in the repair and sales of sit up
and beg bicycles, there are plenty of racing and MTB shops who can work
on a touring bicycle. Just stop the first person on a halfway decent
bike
and ask for directions. Dedicated touring gear will be harder to find
if
you don't know where to look. (If you're stuck you can always contact me
for suggestions)
Renting
a bike.
Some
shops rent out decent recumbents. See www.ligfiets.net
for details. At stations or in tourist resorts it is often possible to
rent a Dutch roadster. I know of no place where you could rent a decent
touring bike. You could try buying a second-hand bike and negotiating
with
the shop to take it back after your trip. (Edit: Sneltweewielers.nl in
Utrecht rents touring bikes, Bike4travel.nl (Rotterdam) rents tandems
and trailers)
Holidays
We
have more holidays than we know what to do with, and they are all
thoughtfully
positioned late spring/early summer. The anniversary of our Queen
(30-4)
is a nice example as the real anniversary of our current Queen Beatrix
is ignored because of the possibilty of inclement weather. We've stuck
to her late mothers
birthday as it makes so much more sense!
Phones
Due
to the widespread use of cellphones public phones are dissappearing
fast.
Coin operated phones are rare due to vandalism, so you'll need a
phonecard.
Phones at trainstations are operated by a different company than the
phones
everywhere else. If you bring a cellphone make sure it doesn't have a
simmlock
so you can use a locally obtained prepay card. Even then phoning home
will
cost a fortune, but receiving one won't be so bad. Textmessages will be
cheaper than voice.
Internet
I'd
try a library or asking your host. And many people have wireless, so
you could stumble on a connection by accident;)
Emergencies
Dial
freephone 112 for police, ambulance or fireservices. If dialed from a
portable
phone you are routed to a national switchboard, in which case proper
directions
to the location are even more important. Expect the operator to be able
to speak -basic- english.
Medical
care
Doctors are well hidden behind
answering
machines and are often organised in collectives to ensure they have
enough days off. Don't waste too much time trying to find one and head
for the emergency department of any hospital.
Natural
dangers
Biggest
natural danger is probably drowning if you haven't learnt how to swim.
If you accidently fall in, first try if you can stand. Many canals
aren't
very deep.
There
aren't many dangerous plants but touching stinging nettles will be very
unpleasant. Especially after some rain you will spot them hanging
out
over the cyclepath, looking for a bit of leg. Rub the offending spots
with the crushed leaves of ground ivi or plantain.
Animals:
Dutch wild animals are pretty well behaved. In theory you could get run
over by deer, attrack rabies near the German border, get savaged by a
wild boar (in the national park Hoge
Veluwe),
get bitten by an adder (poisonous snake) or get stung by bees but you
would
have to work at it. The exception are ticks, many of which are infected
with Lyme's
disease.
If you are bitten by one remove it as soon as possible, within 24 hrs.
If you subsequently notice any red discoloration spreading around the
bite
or get flu-like symptons consult a doctor straight away..

Stinging
nettle, aka brandnetel
Other
dangers
About
200 people were murdered in the Netherlands in 2005, and about the same
number of cyclists died in a traffic incident. In other words, if
personal safety is a concern don't go home. Some neighbourhoods will
not
be as nice as others, but we don't have no-go zones as in the USA or
France.
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