Cycletouring the
Netherlands for foreigners
definitely not by the Dutch
Tourist board
(c) m.s.gerritsen 2003-2010
(please note that any disclaimer by
any lawyer ever probably applies to this page
(and it wasn't me, honest!))
Cycling
is
for the Dutch a way of life. Everyone learns to
cycle in infancy, and for short journeys cycling is
the prefered mode of transport. If you go shopping,
if you have to go to school, if you have to answer
questions in parliament or are planning a pubcrawl
the bicycle can't be beat. Some might even ride a
bike for sports or as a way to keep fit, but they
are a fringe minority with so many normal
bikes on the road. In primary-school we have all
done sums involving a cyclist at 18 km/hr, and most
Dutchmen will consider this quite fast and long
enough.
Theft
The
Dutch ride mainly roadster (sit up and beg)
bicycles, and these are supposed to keep working
without maintenance. In fact maintenance is a
liability, as a new rear tyre increases the risk of
theft. Bike theft in Holland is a real problem
and the most popular crime, committed
either by addicts looking for money or by those who
have missed the last bus home. In some circles it is
even considered normal to steal a similar bike if
you find your own bike gone! In 2006 760.000
bikes were reported stolen, which is about 5% of all
cycles in the Netherlands!
I
would suggest to
- Bring
a
lock, and lock the bike to something solid
- Not
to park the bike in the streets at night
- Not
to bring your bike to large cities with a
population of drug addicts (walk or use trains,
trams or busses if you can work out how the ticket
system works. Taxi's are very expensive, and
-politely put- the quality and morality of the
drivers is variable)
- Only
park
your
bike at railwaystations if there is a guarded
facility (check the opening hours though)
- Not
to expect anything from the police (okay, perhaps
a cup of coffee)
- Oh
by the way, if you apprehend a thief be nice to
him. Only police or criminals are permitted to use
force, ordinary persons will be prosecuted.
Arrival
If you arrive by plane, but want to start
cycling from Schiphol Airport, print the map by the airport
authority for
directions.
If you want to continue by train there are
ticketmachines situated in the baggageclaim area, so
you can get a ticket before your bags arrive. If you
leave the bike packed you won't need a separate ticket
for it. The trainstation is underneath the
departurehall, check the large yellow noticeboards for
the right stationplatform. The airporttrain to
Amsterdam is ideal hunting grounds for pickpockets, so
take care.
Trains
Outside of rushhour (this restriction does
not apply in weekends or July and August) it
is theoretically possible to take your bike with you
on the train. Getting tickets (buy before boarding!)
can be quite a challenge though, as more and more
humans are being replaced by ticket vendor machines.
But shouting at the machine is fine, where humans
might feel threatened. These machines probably
accept your ATM card with a four digit PIN, but
don't let this nice helpfull man in line behind you
run of with it! You'll need a special ticket for the
bike, and be prepared that the designated place for
the bicycle is at the other end of the train. If you
get there before the train has left this place will
either be occupied, or to small to fit your bike.
And you are supposed to remove your bags from the
bike, but if you are a poor bewildered tourist the
conductor might turn a blind eye.
If the trains actually run on time, please
don't mention it. Complaining about NS-rail is sociably
much more acceptable.
Riding
in
traffic
Dutch cyclists grow up around motorcars,
and motorists are used to bicycles. It's a jungle
out there, and the survivors have figured out a way
to stay alive. To a foreign cyclist it will look
totally accidental if the observed behaviour
coincides with the official rules of the road. You
will need some time to acclimatize, so don't tackle
the busiest city first if you can help it. But take
it easy the first days and you will be ok because,
although it makes a poor epithaph, most drivers now
realise that a cyclist can hit a car intentionally
head on and it will still be the car-drivers fault
by law. You'll know you're accepted into the fold
when a passing motorist brushes you with his mirror,
instead of giving you a wide berth as if you're an
alien!
All traffic (including bicycles)
from the right has mandatory right of way, but often
this is changed with road signs. Watch out for
roundabouts, as the priority rules are varied from
region to region to catch out the non-locals.
If
you don't hinder other traffic cyclists can ride two
abreast.
Busy junctions can have separate traffic lights for
cyclist. Sometimes you have to push a button to get
it's attention, sometimes the button is only for
show ;)
Roads
To make driving a car easier we have lots
of cyclepaths:
- We
have
cyclepaths
to connect villages to the nearest city. But
trying to ride from city to city can be a real
challenge, as some vital piece might be missing
necessitating a large detour without the help of
signposts,
- We
have
cyclepaths
for tourist which don't go anywhere usefull,
- We
have
cyclepaths
which are mandatory for cyclists,
- We
have
cyclepaths
which are optional for cyclists (but forbidden for
other vehicles),
- We
have
cyclepaths
which can be ignored by all traffic users..
If you
encounter a blue round shield with a bicycle depicted
this means a mandatory cyclepath.
If you encounter the rectangular sign
"fietspad" only cylists are allowed to use the path,
but they are welcome to use track adjacent.
If you encounter a red road surface with a
bike on it, cyclist are suggested to use that bit, but
without the round sign mentioned this doesn't mean
much.
  
(l to r) mandatory cycling path,
definitely not a cycling path, optional cycling
path with the ubiquitous bollards
Cycle
paths
are usually constructed with concrete tiles over
treeroots, power lines and moleruns, but red 'double
rolling resistance' asphalt is another option. Posts
thoughtfully placed in the middle of the path to
deter motorists (as if somebody would ride on a
cyclepath by choice) ad excitement at night. Or the
path might end suddenly with a 90 degree turn-off
shooting you in front of the uncoming traffic which
you can't see for the trees lining the road.
Cycling
is
not allowed on Motorways and trunkroads (with or
without a hardshoulder), on roads armed with a round
red-white sign depicting a bicycle, on roads flanked
by a mandatory cyclepath, on roads where you could
use the service road instead, or on the footpath.
Other laws: it is legal to tow a trailer and we have
no mandatory helmet law. Maximum width of a bicycle
is 30" (75cm), wider and you have to follow
the rules for handcarts which are completely
forgotten by motorists, cylists and cops
alike. Bicycles should be fitted with a bell,
reflectors to the rear, sides and pedals, have a
working brake and carry (non flashing) lights after
darkness. With the exception of the lights you
should, like any Dutchmen, expect to get away
without any of the above!
For
cyclist who like cheating there are 'nationale
fietsroutes'. These routes for cyclist avoid
many of the challenges, involve nice bits of scenery
and quiet roads suitable for cycling, and go to
places you actually might want to go to. You could
try to get a map at the tourist-office or a
bookstore, but the routes are signposted. The maps
for all routes are available in the guide:
'Basiskaart fietsroutes' @ € 27,50 Get
the current one with the maps printed double sided
on plastic material, not the old superceded one with
the maps printed on watersoluble paper! Note that
these routes usually include sections through
forests etc, where the roadsurface is not paved. I
would suggest a 35mm tyre or wider, especially in
the wet season.

sign for a national cycleroute (LF14a
goes in the opposite direction). Kamperen bij de
Boer is also useful, it directs you to a small
'campsite at the farm'
Nodal grid
('knooppuntroute')
We even have them in the north now, so you can
traverse a fair part of the country and Belgium
using the nodal grid for cyclist. Nodes are provided
with a signpost complete with a regional map and you
can plan your route by making a list of the numbers
of all the nodes you will be passing. If you buy a
recent updated cycling map the numbers will be on
the map too. If you have difficulty with remembering
the Dutch placenames 36-38-41-29-42 might be easier
to follow ;) In nature reserves the roads could be
anything from tarmac to MTB style singletrack.
Things to watch out for when you try to use this
system:
- the
signs are rather small and usually badly
positioned, which makes it difficult to anticipate
forcing you to a stop or crawl at every junction
- there
might be a logical way between two nodes on the
map, but if it doesn't pass the standards by the
committee you'll have to detour or use your own
sense of direction
- sometimes
there will be an easily missed 4" by 6" sign
saying that to reach the next nodal point you have
to follow some other signposted route
Routeplanner
The Fietsersbond (cyclist union) has a cool
routeplanner for cyclists online. You can choose
fast or scenic routes with lots of options and there
is a language option too. You can print out the
track of save it as a file for your GPS or
googlemaps. It is all here:http://www.fietsersbond.nl/fietsrouteplanner/
Roadmaps.
The whole country fits on a single roadmap
1: 250000 (4 mls/") If bought at a red and yellow
petrol station, price and quality will be quite
reasonable. Smaller scale maps exist, but if you go
north-south you'll need quite a few. Getting lost in
the Netherlands is probably possible, but before
long you'll run into one of the 16 million Dutchman
who are eager to show off their english.
GPS
If you prefer a map for your GPS download the free
'Openfietsmap' at http://sites.google.com/site/openfietsmap/
By all reports this one is miles better than
anything you can buy! Not surprisingly it is the
work of a Cyclist!
Hills
Most of the country will disappear if we
switch off the pumps. So not surprisingly we have
very few hills and to confuse matters more the ones
we have are often called mountains (= berg)! These
can be found in the south (The Belgian Ardennes
extend into Limburg) or scattered around the
National park Hoge Veluwe bang in the middle of the
country (Veluwezoom, Sallandse Heuvelrug, Utrechtse
Heuvelrug). Dutch racing cyclist will know all these
hills by heart, foreigners will probably fail to
spot them. Don't leave your granny gear at home
though, because what we do have is Wind! The country
is very open in places and you could face a tough
headwind all day long. If you're lucky the headwind
will be dry ;).
Signposts
We have lots of signposts in the
Netherlands. Red letters on white are signposts for
cyclist (these usually point to one out of a series
of 10 different hamletts in about the same
direction), blue/white signs for motorcars actually
mention the place you want to go. Too bad you don't
know about that bit of motorway in between. Green on
white signs are also used for extra long (?) and
scenic cycleroutes. Black lettering on yellow is
used for detours, as it is common with road
reconstruction to block the whole road instead of
mucking about with temporary traffic-lights and
single file. On a bike the best approach is to
ignore these signs and press on. Occasionally this
won't work as you'll find a bridge completely gone,
but more often you' ll avoid a lot of -illegal for
cyclists- motorways and silly detours by just
walking a short stretch and asking nicely!
 
signposts for cyclists...
 
More signs for
cyclist. Left: Uitgezonderd means excepted,
so this dead end will continue as a cyclepath.
Right: Not very useful for touring: this
sign is used for a MTB track

Doorgaand
verkeer = through route, cyclists should turn
right (red lettering) . This also happens to be in
the direction of the tourist office (VVV)

Temporary sign: doorgaand (through route) verkeer
(traffic) gestremd (blocked) uitgezonderd
(excepted). Naturally bicycles don't deserve a
mention
E-bikes
You know it must be weekend with a good forecast
when the E-bikes come out in force. The
typical E-bike is bought in pairs by couples who
can't ride a bike worth a damn to enable them to
terrorise a larger part of the country. They will
pull left without looking over their shoulder, come
round blind bends on narrow tracks through the
forest with the power setting on 11 and ride two
abreast oblivious to other road users. Signs to look
out for are bikes with fat hubs, erratic pedaling
(pedal only half a turn to prevent the electronics
from cutting out, saddles too low, matching outfits
warmer than a cyclist could stand, and blue rinse.
They are all deaf as a post and will complain loudly
that you should have used your bell. You have been
warned!
Food
24 hour economy refers in the
Netherlands to the working week. If you want to buy
food you'll find most supermarkets close at 20:00,
and they won't be open on Sundays unless the
management is really clever and you're well clear of
the biblebelt! In rural area's they might close even
earlier. On the plus side, cafe's and bars are much
more liberal, and in some cities it is possible to
keep drinking around the clock. If you're over 16
and manage to stagger to the next place that is.
Tee-totalers might not appreciate the Dutch
Coffeeshop thoughtfully situated near airport or
border, although no alcohol is served in those
places. On the subject of coffee, many supermarkets
have a free courtesy coffeemachine in the back of
the store.
If
you want fastfood drive past the McDonalds and go to
an authentic cafetaria. Get yourself a ' grote patat
met" (large french fries with mayonaise) or
something similar unhealthy (who cares, if you're
cycling you need all the calories you can get;) )
and save some money.Top of the bill is a 'Kapsalon'
where you can actually feel your arteries clogging
up ;) If you survive you can go for jellied
eels or fresh herrings next!
Camping
You're not supposed to camp in the wilds
or in what we consider wilderness. You'll probably
fail to spot our nature reserves because we have
nature organised. This is big business involving
committees, planning permission, designers and heavy
earthmoving equipment. Certainly not something to be
left to nature, which is why it looks
different. But if you pick your stealth
camping-spot with care you could be ok, just don't
try this in the height of the tourist season in
coastal resorts. Evasion of the tourist tax is
frowned upon! Campings are probably closed
october-april. If you decide to tour in the
off-season, you'd better bring decent rain gear.
With a sea-climate being out all day on a bike on a
rainy day would not be my idea of fun.
The latest thing is that wild camping in
our organised wilderness is now organised and
regulated too! In some forests, spots are marked
where you can pitch your tent for the night. Don't
look for it on the site of our forestry commision: staatbosbeheer.
it is unintelligible, and knowing Dutch
doesn't make it any better.The Hiking
site has a list with placenames and GPS
coordinates of the sites (click on the map (the red
spots don't mean a thing) and you get a list of the
closests spots. Pitch your tent within sight of the
pole and boil the water (there should be a well)
before consumption. Take your trash, don't build a
fire and leave within three days.
If, like most cyclists, you like your campsite
simple and quiet but with a hot shower, you could
try the campsites by the Dutch forestry commision.
You'll need a permit (valid for upto 4 persons) and
a list of sites whch can be obtained at the first
campsite you visit: http://www.natuurkampeerterreinen.nl/en/index.html
Friends
on
Bicycles (Vrienden op de fiets)
If you're not the camping type you will
appreciate the foundation Vrienden op de Fiets. This
is a widespread network of people offering a room
and a breakfast for fellow cyclist for 19.00€ or
less.You'll have to join the foundation for the
adresses, but it 's only a nominal fee. They have a
website
and the link for the english language section is
hidden in the blue bar at the top, to ensure than
only proper cyclist will join!
Things
to
do on a bike
- Ride
the
Afsluitdijk,
the dike which turned the Zuyderzee into the fresh
water lake IJsselmeer Depending on the wind,
this could take you all day. Another tough one
could be Enkhuizen-Lelystad, which goes halfway
through the IJsselmeer and which is notorious for
mosquitos (The ferry Enkhuizen-Stavoren might be
more fun)
- Visit
Velorama,
the bicycle museum in Nijmegen
- Ask
the
miller
if you can take a look inside if you spot a
working windmill
- Visit
Groningen,
which was once voted Fietsstad (cycling town) of
the year. The cyclepaths fitted with sleeping
policemen probably clinched it!
- Ride
along
one
of our rivers (Waal, Rijn, IJssel) over the river
dike, and enjoy the timeless landscape by Rembrand
cs. (or see the originals in the Rijksmuseum
allthough most of the museum is closed for
alterations)
- Eat
lunch,
leaning
against a Drents Hunebed (Megalithic gravetomb
made of very large stones in the province of
Drente)
- Take
a girl
friend home on the luggage carrier after a
night out.
- Get
your
picture
taken by one of our many speedcamera's! (only a
few km's over the limit should do it, and
motorists will love you for it)
Things
not
to do with a bike
- Many
cyclepaths
through
the Dunes are fitted with barriers, speedbumps and
other attractions to turn away cyclists. You might
have to unload to get your bike through the narrow
barriers!
- Ride
without
lights
in darkness. Ride with a blinky in rural area's:
city cops will be happy that you have some sort of
light, rural cops have enough time on their hands
to write a ticket! By law the lights should
be fitted to the bike, not to the person but it
has recently been officially announced that this
won't be enforced (officially not enforcing
official law is the Dutch way of doing things, and
Gedoogbeleid
could soon be a word in your language too!)
- Take
your
bike
with you in shops or restaurants, unless you're
very good at 'sorry I'm a foreigner...'
Cycleshops
Although the majority of cycleshops
specialize in the repair and sales of sit up and beg
bicycles, there are plenty of racing and MTB shops who
can work on a touring bicycle. Just stop the first
person on a halfway decent bike and ask for
directions. Dedicated touring gear will be harder to
find if you don't know where to look. (If you're stuck
you can always contact me for
suggestions)
Renting
a
bike.
Some shops rent out decent recumbents. See
www.ligfiets.net
for details. At stations or in tourist resorts it is
often possible to rent a Dutch roadster. I know of
no place where you could rent a decent touring bike.
You could try buying a second-hand bike (The Dutch
version of Craigslist is at Marktplaats.nl) and if
at a shop negotiating to have them take it back
after your trip. (Edit: Sneltweewielers.nl in
Utrecht rents touring bikes, Bike4travel.nl
(Rotterdam) rents tandems and trailers)
Holidays
We have more holidays than we know what to
do with, and they are all thoughtfully positioned
late spring/early summer. The anniversary of our
Queen (30-4) is a nice example as the real
anniversary of our current Queen Beatrix is ignored
because of the possibilty of inclement weather.
We've stuck to her late mothers birthday as it makes
so much more sense!
Phones
Due to the widespread use of cellphones,
public phones are dissappearing fast. Coin operated
phones are rare due to vandalism, so you'll need a
phonecard. Phones at trainstations are operated by a
different company than the phones everywhere else.
If you bring a cellphone make sure it takes a
simmcard and doesn't have a simmlock so you can use
a locally obtained prepay card. Even then phoning
home will cost a fortune, but receiving one won't be
so bad. Texting will be cheaper than voice.
Internet
I'd try a public library or asking your
host. And many people have wireless, so you could
stumble on an open connection by accident;) Many
cafe's etc will also offer free wifi.
Emergencies
Dial freephone 112 for police, ambulance
or fireservices. If dialed from a portable phone you
are routed to a national switchboard, in which case
proper directions to the location are even more
important. Expect the operator to be able to speak
-basic- english.
Medical
care
Doctors are well hidden
behind answering machines and are often organised in
collectives to ensure they have enough days off.
Don't waste too much time trying to find one and
head for the emergency department of any
hospital.Unlike US doctors a Dutch physician will
not try to prescribe the entire contents of the
pharmacy to cover every unlikely eventuality, even
though the same medication will cost a lot less here
;).
Natural
dangers
Biggest natural danger is probably
drowning if you haven't learnt how to swim. If you
accidently fall in, first try if you can stand. Many
canals aren't very deep.
There
aren't many dangerous plants but touching stinging
nettles will be very unpleasant. Especially after
some rain you will spot them hanging out over the
cyclepath, looking for a bit of leg. Rub the
offending spots with the crushed leaves of ground
ivi or plantain. Avoid Bereklauw (Hogweed) too.
Animals: Dutch wild animals are pretty well behaved.
In theory you could get run over by deer, catch
rabies near the German border, get savaged by a wild
boar (in the national park Hoge Veluwe), get bitten
by an adder (poisonous snake) or get stung by bees
but you would have to work at it. The exception are
ticks, many of which are infected with Lyme's
disease.
If
you are bitten by one remove it as soon as possible,
within 24 hrs. If you subsequently notice any red
discoloration spreading around the bite or get
flu-like symptons consult a doctor straight
away. Another pest in the south of the
country, active from the middle of May till July can
be the Oak processionary, whose poisenous hairs can
cause asthma and skin irritation. You might
encounter warning signs "Processierups"

Stinging nettle, aka brandnetel
Other
dangers
About 200 people were murdered in the
Netherlands in 2005, and about the same number of
cyclists died in a traffic incident. In other words,
if personal safety is a concern don't go home. Some
neighbourhoods will not be as nice as others, but we
don't have no-go zones as in the USA or
France.
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